Scenic Byway 12
Scenic Byway 12 is yet another one of those many Utah roads that is dang near perfect. It starts at either Capitol Reef or near Bryce Canyon depending on the direction you take and it’s nonstop beautiful sights and adventures the entire time. You’e got the aforementioned Capitol Reef if you start on the northeast side of it before you ascend the gorgeous Boulder Mountains. There are numerous look out points on the mountain with one of them being the place where I took one of my favorite pictures of the southwest ever.
I’ve hit snow a couple times while going through those beautiful mountains but it’s a lovely kinda snow... Except for when the pass is closed and you’re forced to go all the way around to Panguitch.
On the other side of the mountains is Boulder and the start of the Devil’s Backbone road which I tried to take in March of 2022 the day I got married but as I ascended, the snow piles grew higher until it forced us to turn around. Sometimes the road does not open up until late May or June. Anasazi State Park is also in Boulder and it’s a great little park with a nice museum full of artifacts and a partially excavated group of structures. My wife and I have stayed at the Boulder Mountain Guest Ranch three times now and it is a fantastic place with amazing cabins.
The Burr Trail also starts in Boulder and that is a special place for me and will be for you once you take it. The real treat of Highway 12 starts after Boulder though: The Hogback. With few guard rail, sharp turns, steep cliffs of 1,000 feet, a deep canyon at Calf Creek Falls, and some amazing views of the entire surrounding area, it is without a doubt one of the most fun roads you can travel on in the southwest. I recommend it immensely. Pull over and peer down into the many sandstone canyons with alcoves and hidden treasures that include waterfalls and ruins and many more awaiting adventures.
Also be on the lookout for Head of the Rocks Overlook and the many many other viewpoints that dot the Scenic Byway until you reach Escalante.
You also won’t regret stopping at the Kiva Koffeehouse and grabbing some delicious brew and fantastic pastries. It also has a great view. Not to mention the building itself is inspired by kivas and very awesome.
Before you hit Escalante though, make sure to travel down yet ANOTHER amazing road that is the Hole in the Rock Road. Talk about an adventurer’s playground. There are endless slot canyons, camping spots, sandstone wonders, incredible views, and so much more. It is a must visit and explore.
Escalante though, is a fantastic town with a great little grocery store that sometimes has freshly made baguettes. One of my favorite pizza places of all time anywhere in the world is Escalante Outfitters. Their Kings Mesa Pizza with Red sauce, chicken, ham, pepperoni, bacon, & Italian sausage is out of this world. Plus their coffee is very good and they’ve got lots of camping gear, a liquor store, and souvenirs. I love that place very much.
There’s also the Escalante Petrified Forest State Park. There you’ll see tons of petrified wood and you’ll get a fantastic view of what the locals call “the Desert”.
Lastly, the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center is in town with maps, tips, weather info, guidebooks, and more souvenirs. The Rangers know what they’re talking about (for the most part) so it’s always nice to ask them for advice. Also there’s dinosaur bones in there!
From Escalante, you’re heading down to Henrieville and Kodachrome Basin State Park with the Kaiparowitz Plateau on your left. You pass through a beautiful area known as the Blues that provide wonderful scenic overlooks.
You then climb up to Bryce Canyon National Park and beyond to Red Canyon and Dixie National Forest. The red hoodoos and green shrubs are gorgeous dusted with snow, which they often are in winter and spring. Not to mention you get to drive through a little red tunnel on the road! Also be on the lookout for a small turnoff that points you to a small cliffside Anasazi granary.