If you’ve come here to get the deets on some hikes to amazing and very tough to get to ruins, you’ve come to the wrong place. The Bears Ears & Cedar Mesa area is flooded with over 100,000 archaeological sites and some of them are jaw-droppingly awesome. These jewels of the southwest require fording rivers, bouncing along some of the roughest 4WD roads, hiking through cow crap creeks that will ruin your boots, climbing down near sheer cliffs, scurrying along overhangs of almost a thousand feet, and tons of respect for the treasures that dot the landscape. I’ve been lucky to meet the right people who knew I would keep the area’s secrets so they divulged some information. I’ve done lots of research with books, paying for information, and years of trial and error. The more work you do to find these areas the more likely you are to treat them with respect. That being said, with the new designation, while I understand the intentions, will bring a whole lot more curious people who lack the reverence necessary for these adventures.

It takes patience and perseverance and lots of preparation to reach some of these spots while others are just right off the highway. Many of the ruins are named and searchable while others are only ghosts, much like the people who once inhabited the area (they’re the ancestors of the Pueblo peoples of New Mexico and Arizona). Once you begin to explore them, it becomes an addiction that needs to be fed with more discovery. I encourage you to do that discovery.

But my goodness, please be respectful. I’ve filled my pack and pockets with trash before grabbing a trashbag out of my truck to gather the rest. I’ve seen smoldering fires amongst the ruins. Too often there are countless shells and casings littering the area around a site (pick up your brass!). I’ve even thrown away a dirty diaper sitting in a pile of garbage that included an old gameboy. So I understand the need to protect the area but I know that protection means even more visitors. Hopefully we can balance the two competing forces of freedom and preservation.

While you’re exploring the wonders that are the ruins take note of the wood beams, which are not placed there by modern day archaeologists. Those are the same wooden beams that were used by the people that once inhabited the structures! Sometimes you can still see the white paint. Also, always be on the lookout for petroglyphs and carvings along the walls. And remember to keep the artifacts there. I always like to sift through the sand and look for points, pot sherds, and corn cobs but be sure to leave them there.

While exploring, you’re bound to find kivas, homes, granaries, towers, and all manner of beautiful structures with art, artifacts, and plenty of spirits. Always be mindful and respectful and let’s keep the west wild.